S9723EnvelopeSimplicity 9723 features a dress with two styles of skirt, and a jacket. At PatternReview.com, two people have reviewed this pattern and they have had mixed things to say. One, its extremely historically inaccurate. Two, there have been various issues with the pattern, which I was glad I read about before getting started. The bad comments were almost enough to make me search for another pattern to use for Halloween (yup this is the basis of my Halloween costume this year!) but in the end I decided to go with it and make corrections as needed.

I spent a small fortune on fabrics for this project and so far I seem to have overbought across the board but the fabric allowances given on the envelope back are given for multiple pieces of the costume together-  there is no measurement given for just the jacket, its the jacket and skirt together. This left to me guessing at the amounts needed and at this point I have an extra yard+ of silver pleather as well as a good 1.5 yards left over of the black poly-cotton broadcloth.

The jacket is done in a bright silver metallic pleather with a reptile texturing to it, with black poly-cotton broadcloth for the lining. The blouse and petticoat (which I am currently working on) is done in the same poly-cotton broadcloth, and the skirt will be done in a deep red medium weight satin.

S9723Front

 

The biggest complaint with this pattern, and I agree with it completely, is that the blouse and skirt are sewn as one item, not separates. This is easy enough to fix. I added several inches in length to the blouse, and instead of having a center back zip as was intended, I cut the center back on the fold, and inserted a zipper under the arm. The neckline is high and snug though, so I cut a slit into the upper back at the neckline, finished the edges with bias tape, and added a snap closure at the neck. That way I can pull it on easily, but still retain the same look as before. I thought the neckline would make me feel claustrophobic but oddly enough its pretty comfortable to wear.

S9723Back

 

People who reviewed this also complained that the sleeve cuffs of the blouse are too tight to close when worn. All I can figure is they took too large of a seam allowance because not only are they closed when I put it on, but I can slide my hands through them while they are fastened without issue.

S9723Piece

 

I have the main pieces of the petticoat stitched together at this point, and when I resume working on it, I’ll be stitching together the ruffle pieces and adding them to the bottom of the petticoat. Then it will be on to the outer skirt an after that I’m done. I’m not looking forward to the petticoat ruffles as I hate gathering, but its got to be done. I’m looking forward to finishing this one and getting to wear it out for Halloween!

B5011-frontWay back in September of last year, I sewed View A of this pattern, and while it was cute, and I loved my fabric, it had a horrible saggy back which I now think the only way to fix it is to tear it down, interface the back panel, and add elastic inside of the panels. Its just not a good top for me, and I don’t think my fabric choice had much to do with it. :getlost:

Our friends Tracy and David are having a BBQ next weekend and Tracy suggested attire or bad Hawaiian shirts and the like. I decided I’d go with the Hawaiian theme, but I was going to make an awesome shirt, not a horrible one. I had this absolutely beautiful red and white hibiscus flower fabric in my stash, but after washing it, there was barely 1 2/3 yards of it, so I knew that would limit what I could use it for. I actually got this fabric back in about 1994 while shopping at Joann’s with my grandmother and intended to make a dress with it. I still have that dress pattern, but there’s no way I’m going to see my 12 or 13 years old body again. :tongue:

Butterick 5011 View B of this pattern was my one top pattern that used the least amount of fabric, and the only reason I was able to cut all the pieces for this was because the print is largely non-directional, so I could place the pieces any way they would fit. Even so, it was a close thing. I cut all the pieces yesterday, making it a size smaller than when I sewed view A, and today I spent about two hours actually stitching it up.
The only pace I wandered from the directions was where it said to slipstitch the opening left in the shoulder strap after stitching the tops of the straps together. I busted out my best matchy-matchy thread and just turned the edges in and top stitched it there. I though about top stitching the whole thing but really the thread match is good enough its barely noticeable.

 

If I make this pattern again, I will be leaving out the waist ties. I get that they are there to give the garment some shape as it has to be loose to get it on as its a woven, but they’re kind of annoying and honestly I can’t decide if I should tie them in the front or the back, wrap them all the way around me, or not.

B5011-back

 

Other then the weirdness of the waist ties, the pattern envelope did not lie- this top is super easy to sew.